BEDDO/CORNING ON THE ROAD: We Thought Montana Was Big Sky. Texas is BIG SKY!!!

Monday, March 26, 2012

Today is Mexico day. We were assured by our fellow campers that in Progreso there is no problem with violence, that no one has been killed in the drug war; that in fact they have a fiesta in March to celebrate the “Winter Texans” who flock to southern Texas and support their economy every year. As I opted out of dental in my health plan to save money, I thought, “What the hell, let’s go get the old teeth cleaned in Mexico!” So we did. You park on the Texas side for $2.00. You walk across a covered bridge straight into Progreso. It is a beautiful, clean, safe bridge, made for us fat, white gringos looking for a deal on prescriptions or dental care in Mexico. We walk by ankle level hats and cups attached to hands which are thrust through the openings in the walkway, begging for money.

At the Progreso Border

TC on the Progreso, Mexico Walkway

Rio Grande Behind

TC and JB in Progreso

Rio Grande

We met a white guy and an Hispanic guy - Oscar - on the way over and had great conversations with them. They were heading to the pharmacias to pick up some meds for a friend in San Antonio. At the end of our talk, Oscar shook my hand and said it was a pleasure; I told him the same and that it’s always nice to make a new friend. He agreed.

The main drag of Progreso is lined with pharmacias and dentist. Folks are also walking around selling carved stuff – usually Jesus on the cross bleeding – cowboy hats, crocheted hula skirts and tops, leather goods, etc. The vendors weren’t as push as other Mexican towns I’ve been in, and most speak English. This is a slick deal. I don’t know if there were more Mexicans or gringos, or if it was a draw.

Progreso, Mexico

Oscar had pointed out the “purple tooth” sign which was the dentist an RV’er had recommended. We headed that way and went in to see if I needed an appointment – no – and I was in the chair within five minutes. She cleaned my teeth adequately, asked continually if I was OK, polished me up and I went up front to pay my $20.00. Yes, $20.00. I have to say it wasn’t the elaborate ritual I usually go through once a year, but it did the job. The place was air conditioned, the staff pleasant, and I pray the instruments were sterile.

The only other service I wanted performed was a pedicure so in we went to a little place where they eagerly jumped on us. Tony, being a real man with crusty feet, of course had one too. Our women didn’t speak a lot of English but we got along just fine. I don’t know that any of the staff had really been trained to do pedis, and the instruments really aren’t sterile, but our heels feel great and the feets they look pretty.

Mexican Pedi

While we were there another older couple from Wisconsin came in looking for their favorite girl, who wasn’t there. The lady wanted highlights, the gent a pedi. The staff rustled up a sullen girl from the back who did the deed. As she was putting the dye on, I told the woman getting it done that she’d look good in red highlights. Ha ha. Broke the tension a bit.

We were done with Progreso and headed back home across the International Bridge. It was a good enough day, not sure if I would return for anything but teeth cleaning. A lot of the folks get all their prescriptions and dental work done there and have no problems. It led us to a conversation about US regulations and how they irritate some. How much is too much? I think we have some good ones in place for dental hygienists so that we don’t get other people’s germs, etc. Pedicurists are supposed to be trained, their instruments clean – including the files, which looked like she’d used them for six months – that all seems reasonable, doesn’t it?

Back home we had time for a swim and a hot tub, which we had enjoyed at least once a day while here. The pool was so wonderful – 85, but with the heat of the day it felt a bit cool and delightful. It was 3’ at both ends and 4’ in the middle, with a bench all the way around it. It annoyed me at first, until I realized that you could still do laps, and then I could do what I’m now calling “swim yoga.” I haven’t felt this good in years. Down a little over 10 lbs and fit into a pair of shorts I couldn’t zip up when we left. Yay me.

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Got a swim and a shower in then left with waves goodbye from all the new best friends we made that we’ll never see again. Roku rode between us in a kind of archive box (WSF’ers will know what THAT is), happily sleeping and cleaning himself. He eventually ended up crashed on the kitchen counter for the rest of the trip.

Kitty Boy in a Box

As we were toodling along a guy pulled up next to us honking, saying our left dolly tire was ready to blow. Shit! and thanks buddy for taking the time to tell us! Many miles down the road we found a place to pull over and yes indeed, the left tire had two bulges. GPS’d our way to Sears, no help; then to Tire Corral where they stocked and installed within the hour. Feeling like we dodged a bullet, we then went to our original destination, good old Cracker Barrel!, and loaded up for the rest of the trip. Delightful, and all paid for with a Christmas gift certificate. Thank you Teresa and Brian!

Don’t know how many of you have been to a Cracker Barrel, but if you ever get a chance, please go. They have a good model of genuinely friendly staff both in their store and as servers. They cleverly have you walk through their store which is LOADED with the coolest stuff you don’t need – from candy to baby clothes, candles and beautiful blouses, hats and gadgets. It is a great place. And in every right hand corner as soon as you walk in, you’ll find the clearance section.

I’ve never met the Cracker Barrel store lady who wasn’t a delight to talk with, and this one was no exception. Now remember, I am without my girlfriends, and I’ve been with Ton-Ton eight months straight, 24 hours a day. He doesn’t think I’m particularly funny so doesn’t laugh at my jokes (Like my “swim yoga.” I was doing a modified down dog in the pool, but I said since I’m doing it in the pool I’d call it “water dog.” Cracked me up, he just looked at me and said, “I don’t have any idea what you’re talking about.), isn’t interested in any of the Hoarders or Housewife shows or my other reality mainlining. Well, let me tell you, the Cracker Barrel lady and I went AT IT, and we discussed every housewife and our feelings about them. God I felt so whole again! I finally caught myself and said, “Oh man, can you tell I haven’t talked to a woman in awhile?” She totally got it. I gave her a hot tip on the need for Cracker Barrel to get some Swamp People items in their store, as everyone wants the stuff – women especially. Troy and his "Choot 'Em!" would be very successful in their store.

Filled up and talked through, we head for Falcon State park on 83 West. What a gorgeous drive through towns like Rio Grande and Roma – founded in the 1760’s – all nestled in the most verdant valley along the banks of the Rio Grande River. These were places that just felt right.

We checked in late and snuggled into our sweet pull through site. This is a one-nighter so no car for exploring. We weren’t even sure if we had anything for dinner. Roku leapt from the rig and I grabbed my binoculars and camera to see if there were any birds about. Tony washed Blue – much needed – and all was well with our world. Took a walk with Roku and back, saw some brilliant butterflies, a few birds.

Bird's next in prickly pear cactus

Bird Blind at Falcon State Park, TX

Our Sweet Site at Falcon State Park, TX

Prickly Pear Cactus Flower

Roku and I on a Walk at Falcon SP, TX

Kitty Boy on Path at Falcon SP, TX

Bird Next in Cactus, Falcon SP, TX

Set my phone alarm for 6:00 AM, hoping to have some great birding in the morning. Thought I’d heard some coyotes so when the yowling started Tony raced for the door to break up whatever was happening. Turns out it was Roku defending his turf from a cute orange and white cat. How could he have known there was a cat here, in all this wilderness? All is well, we’ll keep Kitty Boy inside for the night, while the other cat howls outside.

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

Got up around 7:00 AM today for a little bird walk. Took a long tour around the campground, down to the boat ramp, up the nature trail, taking many pictures of birds and rabbits and plants. Loved it. Quiet, just the bird song to accompany me, Rio Grande River for a back drop. After a long hour, headed back to Blue whereby Tony took me on another nature trail to see the butterfly garden and a large BBQ. A hiker man walked by with his shorts so far up his butt there were wrinkles on either side of his crackity crack! We both made pulling out motions, ha ha.

Northern Bobwhite

Silver Leaf Nightshade

Falcon SP Red Flower

Falcon SP Site

Cactus Flower

Kitty Boy on Falcon Picnic Table

The butterflies were everywhere, as were the names of all the plants I was wondering about. Loved the oregano the most, smelling it over and over. Fell deep for the butterflies and their flitty ways.

Falcon SP BBQ

Falcon SP Bird Blind

Falcon SP Bunny

Falcon SP Butterfly

Falcon SP Lake and Meadow

Inca Dove

Mockingbird

Pyrrhuloxia

Roadrunner

Red Flowered Yucca

Walked back, took a shower – two West Texas Shower Spiders in my stall – and hit the road. Kitty Boy was already curled up asleep in his new big boy box. We had a great 75 mile trip to Laredo through more old west Hispanic towns. Arrived at Lake Casa Blanca International State Park and found our spot in the desert. It’s 97. I square the inside away, make fresh guacamole, call my seester Maureen, watch Roku catch a snake. Ready for discovering Laredo tomorrow. TC made the burgers and reads a Hiaasen book. Perfect.

Thursday, March 29, 2012

Two days from hell, is what I’ll call this rodeo. My mind went into molassas, unable to think clearly or make decisions about any little old thing; anything physical led to dropping, slamming or falling; my gut and head ache and food will not stay in my body, if you know what I mean. I just feel out of it and miserable, and don’t understand the cause. TC has been very patient, and by patient I mean he steers clear and tries not to say anything that might set me off. Very difficult task, as the way he walks pisses me off these days.

Laredo was just packed full of nothing, and an 88 degree nothing at that. So hot, I don’t know how, or why, folks are wearing long pants and long sleeved shirts.

I do not like this heat, I said,

I do not like it on my head;

It’s hot all up and down my spine,

I sweat and sweat and leave a line.

Every museum or house we went to visit was closed. The area we were in was historic St Augustin, where all the historic action in the past happened. Getting to this district is fascinating as you go through any town in Mexico, really. The stores are Mexican, the streets and drains are Mexican, the people are all Mexican. About half a mile away are the two bridges that lead to Nuevo Laredo on the Mexican side of the border. TC also read that 93% of Laredians are Hispanic, which makes sense as all signs are in both languages. We did go into a few of the mercados and found them to be full of either knock-offs or out of season name brands – no price tag that caught our eye.

After our historic defeat we wandered to the Visitor’s Center, which was also locked. In reading the sigh, you have to buzz to be let in, which we did. Oh god in heaven, air conditioning! We had a great informal talk with the women working the Center about crime, the border, what we saw in Progreso, jobs, economy of Laredo and the housing market.

We left looking for a Starbucks and a pet store. We eventually found both, which was a meandering side show through the city. Starbys was in the Norte Mall so while Tony sipped his mucho grande iced coffee, we relished the cool air and watched the people. Quite an eyeful of mucho beautiful women in outfits I had not seen anywhere else, i.e., bright red stretch pantsuit with a belt cinched around her middle and bosoms exploding from the top.

Back we went to Casa Blanca to let Kitty-Boy have some outdoor time. God it was hot, I still felt shitty. I downed some leftover spaghetti and gave up – bed awaited me. I read myself to sleep at about 7:00 PM, waking once to the sheet lightning and thunder. TC was sitting in his captain’s chair watching the show as if he was in a box seat at Carnegie Hall. Roku stayed outside for 90% of it I guess, not afraid in the least. I took another PM and went back to sleep.

Friday, March 30, 2012

Uvalde, TX: Grumpy old man tells us our cat needs to be on a leash. First time in 9,000 miles.

Saturday, March 31, 2012

Had a lovely, somewhat boring drive to Seminole Canyon SP in Comstock. It is damn hot and I have some trepidation about staying in this desert heat, scrub brush all around. That all disappeared when we pulled into our spot on a high plateau overlooking the most beautiful of all geography: endless miles of vacant land with hills in the background. Finally, a bump in the horizon. God I miss mountains!

Spent the afternoon acquainting ourselves with the harsh, hot, bird filled place; it didn’t take long before we were both soaking it in and loving every inch of it. Roku was in heaven, except for the heat. He prefers the night in these hot places. We sat in the shade and read our books while feeling stuffed full of the beauty of this desert.

Birds are everywhere flying and singing. The vista goes on and on. Cactus are blooming, as are other white, purple, orange and golden flowers. It’s the kind of place that you need to pay attention to detail, yet largely encompasses so much beauty in a single glance. The sunset was fabulous, folding over the far horizon then winking out. The night stars were bright with no city lights to blot them out. I love that dark velvet black with the stars of varying shine-twinkle like a crown on my head.