April 4 – 9, 2012
Because western Texas is so vast and underpopulated, finding a camping site looked to be challenging. Despite my weeks-ago proclamation that I didn’t want to travel near the border, we have stuck to it like glue. More desert and tiny forgotten towns as we aimed for El Paso to spend another one nighter prior to reaching a little corner of New Mexico.
The RV park was adequate – a dirt lot, no trees – however, the swimming pool and hot tub were divine. Becoming prune-like with water excess is not easy in the dry old desert, but we did it! Check that off the list. Picked up a few supplies at Walmart and west we continued.
Our plans have changed dramatically. We have decided to skip California/Palm Springs completely. We’ve been there many times and time is running short to return home by May. So, with a studied look at the atlas, we’ve decided to cut through Nevada via Winnemucca and Bend on our path home.
Just saying “we’re on our way home” is a comfort to me. It will have been ten months gone, a journey to hold in my heart and mind, yet I’m glad that home is where we’re heading. I miss my house, my daughter, my friends, our family– my familiars that I know through travel give you your cornerstone, your guiding star. Home is where you are known and don’t have to explain “where are you from” I’m from “home.”
As with every aspect of this journey a decision to cut out a piece of geography and add another brings a whole new excitement of where we can travel. We both love the unknown pieces of the good old USA that we haven’t seen, that are the “path(s) less traveled”, perhaps. Soooooo, Cracker Barrel for breakfast /lunch and the map in front of us, we decided to continue to travel through Las Cruces and Deming, but instead of continuing west on highway 10, we cut north on 180 to Faywood. It is in Faywood that there is a hot springs, and it is in Faywood where City of Rocks SP is in residence.
As usual, I was bitching the whole way about our need to secure a site, worried they were all full for Easter weekend. Turned off on Highway 61 (revisited, with Dylan), saw another sign for Faywood Hot Springs, then the brown sign we love so much that indicates a government entity and City of Rocks spread before us. Coming over the rise we see a sturdy brick entrance, RVs parked on the right, the ranger building to the left and a breathtaking and beautiful array of upright rocks clustered on the horizon. Looks like the baby of Joshua Tree SP in Palm Springs. Pulled in, talked briefly with the Camp Host to told us to hightail it to site #6, then come back and pay.
There are ten electric sites at this park and 40+ dry sites in and around the rocks. This is a place that soothes my soul. It is quiet desert air, masses of blue sky, birds in and out of the yucca plants and bushes, huge sites and a buttload of view. I could get very used to staring at these rocks and the ridges and hills around them. Got some great shots of birds I hadn’t seen before – a super plus for me! At the advice of some birders I met at Balmorhea, I bought the app “iBird Pro” for my tab and am loving it – very thorough and will help me identify what I see.
 |
City of Rocks Whole Campgroup
|
 |
| City of Rocks Blue Site |
 |
| City of Rocks Plateau |
We learned that there was a “star party” tonight at the parks observatory. Star parties are routine in the southwest because of the deep black skies, miles away from any light pollution. We could hardly wait, and indeed, took Alex’s criticism of being dorks, in passing. At eight o’clock sharp we trudged up the hill in the dusk, finally coming upon a cute little building with a top that slides back to house a huge (in our eyes) telescope. Our sky interpreter is John, an amateur but very knowledgeable star nerd. He does this because he loves to share, and gets free camping.
 |
| City of Rocks Observatory |
We joined about six other campers; unfortunately the sky was cloudy so not much could be seen. He was able to show us Mars, Venus and some very bright starts, while we watched the full moon rise. Another unexpected and absolutely fabulous experience. We vowed to attend Saturday night’s party as well, hoping for a clear sky. Meanwhile, here's the sunset:
Saturday, April 7, 2012
My goal for today was to take a long walk through the rocks then head to the hot springs for a long soak. As with most of our plans, it went to shit quick. I thought that continuing on Highway 61 would bring us to the Faywood Hot Springs within a few miles. I brought our atlas – which didn’t show the hot springs - but not my tab, so we were winging it. We drove this rural loop to Silver City for about 50 miles with lots of signs of a river due to the green, green trees, but no sign of the famed Faywood Hot Springs. I began to get cranky, doubt and remorse at not following our usual protocol sinking deep in me. I get edgy because I feel TC gets critical and short tempered if a plan isn’t played out. He denies this when asked.
The drive was beautiful in this valley. Again, several small, dusty towns, church intact in each, living at the edge of subsistence. Apple orchards, a winery and beef seem the crops of the day. Old 61 lead us on a constant “s” curve to a bizarre sight – a copper strip mine in Santa Rita. Stripped mesas and man-made hills suddenly confronted us. We were puzzled, so stopped at the company overlook. Overlook indeed: overlooked the natural beauty of desert, plateaus, wildlife for 100 years of stripping every morsel to ground sand. It broke my heart and made me so angry. I took picture after picture but it is so vast a hole and a hill, I couldn’t capture the devastation. They’re mining for copper, but the nearest town is Silver City. The second picture is the name of the road, or historic "trail", that passes by that hideous mine.
 |
| St Rita's Copper Mine Shithole |
 |
| The "Trail" that runs by the Mine |
We moved on. TC kept talking about the need and the positive aspects of mining – me feeling as if he’s just rubbing sandpaper on my wound. He won’t shut up about it! To talk of it makes me sick, so I tell him I just hate the whole view of earth being treated this way, and can’t discuss it. He continues to talk about it the rest of the day.
As we’re pulling into and around Silver City, it’s pretty tense in the car. TC feels we’re wasting our time coming here if we’ll be here tomorrow. Because I didn’t get my facts straight about where the hot springs are I feel anxious and guilty about leading us on this rambling ride. We are bitching at each other toward a hell of a fight. And then we meet downtown Silver City: Silver City of the beautiful old buildings, home to Western New Mexico University, the riverwalk at their inner city park called Big Ditch Park, coffee shops with great espresso (thank you Jeebus!), a street chock full of art galleries. Now this, we like. Suddenly the day comes into focus, the reasons why we’re on this marvelous trip are clear again – when we miscalculate our route, about 99% of the time it pays off in a big win for us, by discovering something marvelous. This is another one of those times.
 |
| Silver City, NM Architectural Detail |
 |
| Silver City, NM Architectural Detail |
 |
| Silver City, NM Architectural Detail |
 |
| Silver City, NM Buffalo Bar |
 |
| Silver City, NM Architectural Detail |
 |
| Silver City, NM Door Detail |
 |
| Silver City, NM |
 |
| Silver City, NM Hester House - only house to survive the flood |
 |
| Silver City, NM Stairs to The Big Ditch |
 |
| Silver City, NM Storefront Door Tile |
 |
| Silver City, NM Structural Detail |
We roamed the streets for awhile just digging the houses, scenery, people on the main street, then parked and went into the Javalina Coffee Shop. Home again. Two stores wide, tin ceiling, original worn thin plank wood floors, college kids everywhere, newpapers, magazines, puzzles being worked – and the narcotic smell of fresh coffee. Yes ma’m, happy and centered again. We ordered up and shot the shit with the friendly counter girl, tucked into a great breve and read the local paper. I felt exactly as I did at Western in one of Bellingham’s bars or coffee shops, 20 again.
 |
| Silver City, NM Big Ditch Sign |
 |
| Silver City, NM Javalina Coffee Shop |
 |
| Silver City, NM Javalina Coffee Shop |
 |
| Javalina Is a Peccary |
 |
| Silver City Mural |
 |
| Silver City Big Ditch and TC |
 |
| Silver City's Big Ditch |
Wandered the town for about five blocks, saw a HEDGE of blooming lilacs – my all time favorite flower – winding our way down to Big Ditch. It used to be main street, but a flood at the turn of the century wiped all but one house out and left the Ditch. It’s a beautiful river walk with blooming cherry trees, cactus and a slow moving river. Looks like a spot transients love and there weren’t many people walking around. All we could talk about was how vital it could be for the city to clean this up and have art shows, farmer’s markets, music to draw people to it.
 |
Silver City Blooming Lilac Hedge
|
On the way home we found Faywood Hot Springs about a quarter mile from our park so stopped in and made reservations to stay there the next night. It’s $36.00 a night to camp, or $12.00 each to soak.
Home we went in anticipation of clear skies so that our second “star party” would be a happening at City of Rocks. John the star nerd had come personally to our rig to remind us to go, which I thought was very neighborly. It also shows just how serious he is about sharing his star passions. I think he liked my cleavage and perky personality too.
We showed up after dark due to Kitty-Boy being recalcitrant about staying inside for awhile. He meowed as if we had asked him to give up one of his sleeping boxes. When we arrived at the observatory there were at least twenty people stepping back and forth between the huge park telescope and John’s huge telescope, as he tuned each one to different parts of the sky. These telescopes are computerized and pre-programmed so that the user types in the name on a hand controller and it automatically rotates to the chosen planet, star, galaxy or nebulous. He teased me when he got one planet in view, making everyone promise not to say what they had seen until I had viewed it, ending with: “If someone had stayed longer last night they would have seen this already!” It was Saturn! It was Saturn and we saw the rings! It all went up hill from there, with three galaxies, Mars, Venus, and Orion’s nebulous. We were swooning with pleasure – all of us – talking and exclaiming like third graders on a field trip.
We had immediately glomped onto two little girls about eight and nine, and their hippyish dad. After a few viewings the dad said to us, “I know this sounds weird, but would you watch my girls while I go get their mom? She can’t miss this.” We of course agreed, but the girls were horrified. This all took place after dark so they could only hear us and vaguely see our faces. They sat down in some chairs as TC tried to talk about school etc to relax them. I said to them, “I’ve got a tattoo, wanna’ see it? Tell me what it is.” They immediately lost their unease and guessed correctly. We were all a happy unit by the time their mom came. What a fabulous night for us! And what the dad asked wasn't weird, was it?
Sunday, April 8, 2012
Happy Easter one and all!
Showered for the first time in days, unusual for us. This dry air just doesn’t give you the all over sweats that a humid climate does. Enough info for you?
As predicted by the rangers our little park was like a highway. They estimated about 300-500 people would be in for day use. Wow, it looked like it. Truckloads of families, mostly Hispanic, with BBQs and Easter baskets all setting up at the camping sites. It was a lovely tradition to behold.
Moved to Faywood Hot Springs and have a great view of long horned cattle. Walked around with our suits on looking for the best tub. Wasn’t exactly as we expected, very rustic fencing around the private tubs, tubs smaller than expected. Did see one old naked guy at the clothing optional area, but we declined. I could see in Tony’s face that while he doesn’t have a problem with the naked part, would prefer 25 year old women lying around instead of one old white guy. To me it’s not about the naked, it’s about feeling completely free.
 |
| Faywood View |
 |
| Faywood View |
Some of the tubs were crowded with families enjoying their Easter, some were so hot we couldn’t get into them. TC called the office on those to see if they could temper the heat with some cool water, and they did. By the time we roamed over to them again they were a wonderful threesome of:
Monday, April 9, 2012
We have deemed this day “tax day” and are determined to file and get it done. We’re in a beautiful, safe RV park in Silver City, welcomed by the friendly folks who own it, slid into a nice site. We first walked to the library for IRS forms, stopping on the way for lunch at the Curious Kumquat – chickpea and arugala burger for me, unbelievably good. We had a great walk and again, had more people stop whatever they were doing to help us, or greet us – sensationally happy and friendly little town, this Silver City. We then dutifully hiked back to Blue and dug into the taxes. We’re doing two scenerios – filing together and separately – to see which is more advantageous. Almost as soon as we settled in the thunderclouds broke, lightning struck and the rains and hail came. Lasted for about 45 minutes, then the sun was at 75 again. Hoiked in the laundry, made BBQ chicken and corn on the cob. Met two women bicyclists who were nothing short of delightful. A busy time here at old Silver city RV.
Tues and Wed, April 10 and 11, 2012
Two perfectly dismal parks, in equally dismal towns, moved us through New Mexico and into Arizona. Roku lost his pink collar with all his tags somewhere along the way, probably running through brush from the lethargic, yet large, dog named Princess.
News from Alex that her dad was severely ill from alcohol, his 18 day stay in detox cut to six as he checked himself out. He then went home and drank, neighbor checking on him found him once again non-responsive so he’s back in the hospital. Alex is wrecked by this roller coaster of addiction, never knowing if she’ll get a call that he’s dead, or from him that he needs a ride home. This suicide wish of Doug’s has hit me hard too, throwing memory after memory of my early life with him at me so quickly I can hardly breathe. There are flashes of the first time we met; meeting his friends in Seattle; living at the beautiful little house on 3rd Ave in north Seattle that he had worked so hard to restore; fighting, drinking, laughing; our wedding; having Alex; splitting up and divorcing – and through it all he can’t maintain sobriety for long. It’s heartbreaking for me to watch him die, when his life could have been so rich. Choices we make that so thoroughly affect others.
No comments:
Post a Comment